We started the morning going for a short hike at Punta Aderci just north of the commercial harbor for Vasto. It was a very raw and windy day yet a long sleeve shirt with my rain shell as a windbreaker kept things fairly comfortable.
This would normally be a leisurely stroll along the sun basked abruzzi coast but as you can see, not this day. Most of the folks briskly walked out to the point and just as briskly walked back to the cars. Brian and I, who I found is a hiking enthusiast as well having done some very interesting adventure hikes, decided to hike on down to the beach itself and get a little closer to the waves.
It was a nice little trek down to the beach, only about a quarter mile and the dune behind us kept most of the wind off and we got to stretch our legs a bit. Something most of the readers know that I like to do. From the point we went to the top of a local mountain to the Abbastanza San Giovanni in Venere. This abbey originally built in the 6th century underwent a major expansion in the year 1,000.
Photos courtesy Fabrizio Lucci Italia Sweet Italia
Fabrizio, who was a constant font of local information, answered a question which had been resting in the back of my mind for a while which was…why the burst of building cathedrals which seemed to burst forth around the year 1,000? Well, forth those of us who have been around long enough to remember 2,000 and 2012 and the many folks thought that the world was coming to an end? Well, something similar occurred in the year 1,000 and those with means sought to purchase “indulgences” from the church to save their immortal souls. The church then took these contributions and constructed many of the older cathedrals that we see scattered through Europe. As the saying goes….”follow the money” LOL
There was a beautiful cloister area at the Abbey where a local artist had been commissioned recently to paint the stations of the cross. Part of the Holy Thursday ritual of the Roman Catholic Church which depicts Christ’s carrying his cross to Calvary. The paintings got a little graphic at certain points so I’m only sharing the picture of the resurrection itself but the collection was very well done.
From the Abbey we went to lunch on a Trabocchi a traditional Abruzzi fishing hut that extended out into the Adriatic about 200 feet
Got to admit that a part of me went “You’re kidding right?” when I saw the place and the sea did not do anything to imbue me with confidence.
Normally the eating area had plastic sheeting around it to keep the weather off of the patrons but the wind is so strong that they could not put them up for fear of them tearing apart. Fortunately, the kitchen area blocked the wind at the table so we were in the lee of the wind. Lunch was different, at least for me as we had appetizers and a traditional Abruzzi fish stew.
Photos courtesy Fabrizio Lucci-Italia Sweet Italia From top left: Octopus salad; Fresh Anchovy bruschetta; pickled mackerel; sauteed grape tomatoes (truly delicious) and seafood stew.
I have to admit it was a little disconcerting in the beginning when the Trabocchi trembled a little every time the waves crashed against its underside but after a bit it just became a part of the background. I also have to admit that eating seafood in the rough is not my long suit, so, the fish stew took a bit to get used to. But, it was tasty and after a bit I was breaking up the various shellfish (never did figure out what the little white ones were) and I have to admit a little fork, like one uses on crab or lobster, would have been helpful but when in Rome……or Vasto as the case may be LOL.
After a bit the owner of the Trabocchi, Rocco, the owner, said that it was probably time for us to get off the Trabocco. I had noticed that it seemed like the sea was getting higher and it ended up it was…the tide was coming in! Well I didn’t have to be told twice, nor did any of the others, we all beat feet off the place without delay.
The model of a trabocco and Rocco demonstrating how a trabocco caught fish. Photos courtesy Fabrizio Italia Sweet Italia.
After a bit of a respite at the hotel we gathered again to go to cousin Rosa’s place for an final evening meal together of homemade pizza. Posa had made the dough and the sauce but it was our job to make the pizzas.
Photos courtesy of Fabrizio Lucci – Italia Sweet Italia From upper left: Robert Walt and I making pizza; anin door wood fired oven; Pizza with peppers and salted cod; Yours truly getting my certificate of completion (which was kind of tongue in cheek) with Antonio (red jacket) our driver and Angelo (Rosa’s husband)
Since the group now kind of knew each other the evening was loud with a lot of laughter, good pizza and great wine (thanks to Angelo, the house wine maker). The coolest thing I saw was the indoor wood fired oven. My discovery for the evening was that pizza with salted cod and bell peppers is pretty tasty.
Finally Fabrizio handed out certificates of completion jokingly saying that we could use them to apply for Italian citizenship (you can’t I know as I am already in the recognition process) Angelo was handing me the certificate when our driver Antonio came in. Both were great guys and I was honored to be in the picture with them. All in all it had been a great week.
So, I must admit that on the front end I had some reservations about doing group tour as I have always been a pretty much do it on your own type of guy. But, props to Fabrizzio, this tour was excellent IMHO both informative and fun. If anyone wants to get out and see more than just “regular tourist” Italy and get a flavor of the food and the people, I highly recommend that you review the tour offerings at Fabrizio’s ItaliaSweetItalia.com website.
Saturday was laundry day so I will not bore you with that. But, speaking for myself, it seems like always, after eating wonderful food for several days, a guy just needs a good old fashioned american hamburger. Honestly my experience with hamburgers in Europe has been spotty at best. But in Vasto at Liberty bon bistrot by dinghys they put out a great burger and decent fries and even had Red Peroni! An excellent week in Vasto. Thanks Fabrizio.
Next the trip to Sulmona and Le origini della casa Scudieri (the origins of house Scudere). Ciao for now!
Lou Hikes? 